The territory of the Belgorod region in the 17th century was populated by servicemen from different regions, who brought their culinary traditions into the local culture. We have gathered old recipes still used in some villages of the region, along with their stories. Read about how the region's fish okroshka, fried pies shaped like dumplings, noodle casserole, and a dish similar to couscous came to be.
Traditional Cuisine of Belgorod Region
The cuisine of the Belgorod region in modern times did not differ much from traditional Russian cuisine in general. The basis of the diet consisted of vegetables such as cabbage, turnips, beets, carrots, and later, potatoes. Housewives also used mushrooms and other wild plants – goosefoot, nettles, and wild garlic.
The most popular dishes were shchi (cabbage soup), borscht, and soups, which in the summer were replaced with okroshka, botvinya (a cold beet soup), and svекольник (a beetroot soup). Porridges were also frequently prepared. Housewives used buckwheat, millet, wheat, barley, and other grains. They made different types of groats from each, either leaving the grains whole or crushing them in various ways.
Meat appeared on tables rarely; it was quite expensive, and Orthodox fasts prescribed refraining from eating rich foods. It was prepared on special occasions – weddings, wakes, religious, and ritual holidays. Fish was eaten more frequently, as it could be caught in rivers almost everywhere.
Desserts, as we understand them today, were not a part of the menu. Sweet dishes served at the end of a meal were called "zaedy" (side dishes). Most often, they were baked goods: pies, rolls, bagels, and pretzels. Other traditional sweets at that time included jam, pastila (fruit and berry puree dried in the oven), and gingerbread, which were often decorated with patterns.
Rogovatovskaya Katanka (Роговатовская катанка)
This dish is still prepared today in the village of Rogovatoye in the Starooskolsky district, but only on major holidays. Katanka is millet prepared in a special way. The washed grains are placed in a wooden tray, and a mixture of eggs, milk, and flour is added, then rolled by hand for a long time before being dried in a frying pan or oven. The preparation resembles peas and can be stored for a long time in a bag or jar. Before serving, the katanka is boiled – ideally in meat broth, but it can also be boiled in water. After that, the grains are allowed to swell, and butter is added.
The origin of this dish is unknown. There is a theory that the recipe was brought from distant lands by "kandyl'niki" – exiles. They could have been Berbers, indigenous people of North Africa. Their national dish, couscous, is quite similar in preparation to katanka. However, inside each grain of couscous, there is semolina instead of millet.
Lapshevnik (Лапшевик)
This traditional dessert from the village of Foshchevatovo in the Volokonovsky district is made from noodles, milk, eggs, cream, sugar, and spices to taste.
Lapshevnik is essentially a casserole. The noodles or vermicelli are fried in a pan, then boiled in milk. Beaten eggs, butter, sour cream, and sugar are added, then poured into a heatproof dish and baked. Lapshevnik is usually eaten cold, often served with jam. It can also be prepared without sweetness, with various additions.
Sour Dumplings (кислые галушки)
Sour dumplings are a dessert from the village of Koscheyevo in the Korochansky district, with a history as long as that of the village itself – more than three hundred years. It was traditionally made on Village Day. However, sour dumplings also appeared on the tables of Koscheyevites on regular days, as it is a cheap and easy-to-make dish.
First, prepare the noodles. A thick dough is made from eggs, milk, and flour, which is then rolled into a long strip and cut into thin pieces. These pieces are fried in a pan until golden, cooled, and then soaked in compote – preferably cherry compote.
The dumplings are eaten after some time to allow them to soak up the liquid and swell. Cherries are always added to the bowl.
